Your Anti-Aging Regimen Might be Toxic: Retinol’s Dark Side
Retinol is marketed as a skincare savior, but the risks are hard to ignore. From skin irritation to long-term health concerns, retinol is far from the safe and effective ingredient it’s often made out to be. You shouldn’t have to hurt your skin to help it and healthy skin shouldn’t come with hidden costs.
Skin Irritation and Damage
Overuse of retinol can lead to severe skin irritation, including redness, dryness, peeling, and flaking (Kligman, A. M., & Duo, C. H., 1984). The protective barrier of the skin can be compromised, leaving it dehydrated and more vulnerable to environmental stressors. For those with sensitive skin or conditions like Eczema or Rosacea, retinol can worsen symptoms, causing inflammation and discomfort. Chronic irritation from retinol can even lead to the breakdown of collagen and elastin, essential proteins for skin elasticity, ironically accelerating the signs of aging (Varani, J., Warner, R. L., Gharaee-Kermani, M., Phan, S. H., Kang, S., Chung, J. H., . & Fisher, G. J., 2000).
Increased Sun Sensitivity and Skin Cancer Risk
Retinol significantly increases the skin’s sensitivity to UV rays, raising the risk of sunburn and sun damage (Ozpinar, A., & Liu, Y., 2020). When exposed to sunlight, retinol can become phototoxic, producing harmful free radicals that damage skin cells and DNA. This heightened sensitivity not only increases the risk of skin damage but may also contribute to a higher likelihood of skin cancer over time. Alarmingly, some cosmetic brands have added retinol to daytime products, including sunscreen, undermining the very purpose of sun protection.
Hyperpigmentation and Photosensitivity
Retinol can cause post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, leading to uneven skin tone and dark spots (Babamiri, K., & Nassab, R., 2018). Additionally, retinol heightens photosensitivity, making the skin more prone to sun-induced damage. This can create a vicious cycle of skin irritation, hyperpigmentation, and further sensitivity.
Skin Sensitization and Allergic Reactions
Overuse of retinol can lead to skin sensitization, a condition where the skin becomes overly reactive to other skincare products (Zirwas, M. J., & Stechschulte, S. A., 2018). This heightened sensitivity can cause allergic reactions, making it difficult to use other products without experiencing irritation or discomfort. Essentially, retinol can leave your skin in a fragile, reactive state, limiting your skincare options and increasing the risk of further damage.
Broader Health Risks
The dangers of retinol extend beyond skin irritation and sensitivity. Certain populations, including children, pregnant women, and the elderly, are particularly vulnerable to the risks associated with retinol and retinoids.
1. Risks for Pregnant Women
Retinol and retinoids have not been thoroughly studied in pregnant women, but experts strongly advise against their use during pregnancy. These ingredients can potentially harm fetal development, leading to birth defects. Pregnant women are urged to avoid retinol-containing products entirely.
2. Vitamin A Toxicity
Retinol is a form of preformed vitamin A, and excessive use can lead to vitamin A toxicity. Symptoms include liver damage, osteoporosis, hair loss, and an increased risk of hip fractures in the elderly. While topical use is less likely to cause toxicity compared to oral supplements, the risk remains, especially with prolonged or excessive application.
3. Risks for the Elderly
Older adults are particularly susceptible to the negative effects of excess vitamin A. Osteoporosis and hip fractures are already significant concerns for this population, and the use of retinol-containing products may exacerbate these issues. Additionally, aging skin is thinner and more fragile, making it more prone to irritation and damage from potent ingredients like retinol.
Misleading Marketing and Lack of Transparency
The beauty industry has heavily marketed Retinol as a must-have ingredient, often downplaying its potential risks. Many products containing retinol are advertised as suitable for daily use, with little to no warning about the importance of sun protection or the risks of overuse. This lack of transparency leaves consumers vulnerable to unintended side effects. Terms like "clean," "natural," and "non-toxic" lack strict definitions from the FDA, leaving it up to beauty brands—and consumers—to decide what qualifies as a "safe" ingredient.
Retinoids and Risks
Adapalene
Can cause dryness, redness, itchiness, and peeling. Adapalene also makes your skin more sensitive to the sun. Can cause ‘Retinol burn.’
Alitretinoin
Can cause significant side effects, including harming a fetus. Other side effects include headaches, blood cell disorders, thyroid problems, eye problems, joint pain, increased levels of liver enzymes, depression, anxiety, and severe sensitivity to the sun.
Bexarotene
Causes birth defects in pregnant rats and is contraindicated in pregnant women. Its value as a treatment for CTCL (cutaneous T-cell lymphoma) has been questioned due to severe side effects, including hyperlipidemia, hypothyroidism, hematological reactions, and lack of efficacy.
Isotretinoin
Serious side effects include skin reactions, including Stevens-Johnson syndrome and toxic epidermal necrolysis. Other side effects include dry lips, dry eye, fragile skin, increased susceptibility to sunburn, suicidal thoughts, depression, blurred vision, Keratitis, dry nasal passageways, Alopecia, back pain, Arthralgia, sexual dysfunction, and more.
There are also reports of acute pancreatitis in patients taking Isotretinoin with both normal and elevated serum triglyceride levels.
Retinol / Retinaldehyde
Can cause skin irritation, photosensitivity to light, blistering and stinging, severe headaches, nausea, vomiting, bone pain, and can be associated with acute hepatic injury.
Can also cause redness, blisters, burning, stinging, tingling, itching, dryness, and peeling.
Retinaldehyde is used interchangeably with Retinol; retinol is simply easier to pronounce.
Tazarotene
Highly irritating, especially for sensitive skin. Tazorac causes your skin cells to grow at a normal rate and exfoliate properly. This can result in irritation, redness, and dry, flaky skin.
Tretinoin
Tretinoin is known to cause irritation, dryness, and redness, especially for those with sensitive skin. Can cause headaches, nausea, vomiting, and mucocutaneous symptoms. Other symptoms include: spinal cord disorder, heart failure, ulcer, cardiac arrest, confusion, pain, earache, shortness of breath, retinoic acid-APL syndrome, elevated liver function tests, upper respiratory infection, and more.
Trifarotene
Available by prescription-only. Serious eye symptoms such as sudden vision loss, blurred vision, tunnel vision, eye pain or swelling, or seeing halos around lights.
Serious heart symptoms such as fast, irregular, or pounding heartbeats; fluttering in your chest; shortness of breath; and sudden dizziness, lightheadedness, or passing out.
Severe headache, confusion, slurred speech, arm or leg weakness, trouble walking, loss of coordination, feeling unsteady, very stiff muscles, high fever, profuse sweating, or tremors.
Examples include Tretinoin (Retin-A, Atralin, Avita), Isotretinoin (Accutane, Absorica, Claravis), Tazarotene (Tazorac, Avage), and Adapalene (Differin).
There were 1,249,141 prescriptions written for Tretinoin in 2016. At an average cost of $214.66 each, Tretinoin alone puts roughly $267,316,174 in the pockets of pharmaceutical companies per year. The FDA division that approves new opioid drugs receives 75% of its funding from the opioid industry, as reported by the Guardian; nine out of the ten past FDA commissioners have gone on to work for major drug corporations, and it's reasonable to at least wonder why "long-term animal studies to determine the carcinogenic potential of tretinoin have not been performed," per tretinoin's Rx label.
A study done in the British Journal of Dermatology compared Bakuchiol to Retinol and found Bakuchiol to be equally effective for improving wrinkles and hyperpigmentation. It's also not associated with photosensitivity, tumors, reproductive toxicity or barrier impairment. In other words: Bakuchiol can more accurately be called "clean," no matter how you define it.
Natural rosehip and carrot seed oils are emerging as strong retinol alternative contenders as well; they're high in naturally-occurring vitamin A, as opposed to the lab-isolated vitamin A of retinoic acid. If there are alternatives on the market that can give us similar or even better results, why not use them? If you’re concerned about dark spots, my absolute favorite dark spot corrector is the “Skin Lightening Serum” by LuxeBeauty.
Conclusion
Retinol’s risks far outweigh its purported benefits. From skin irritation and increased sun sensitivity to broader health concerns like vitamin A toxicity and risks for vulnerable populations, retinol is a controversial and potentially harmful ingredient. The beauty industry’s failure to adequately warn consumers about these dangers is a disservice to public health. Instead of relying on retinol, consider safer alternatives that don’t come with such significant risks. When it comes to skincare, safety should always be the top priority.
References:
Levin, J., & Momin, S. B. (2010). How much do we really know about our favorite cosmeceutical ingredients?. The Journal of clinical and aesthetic dermatology, 3(2), 22–41.
Kligman, A. M., & Duo, C. H. (1984). Topical tretinoin for photoaged skin. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology, 11(4), 663-681.
Ozpinar, A., & Liu, Y. (2020). Retinoid dermatitis mimicking facial erysipelas after aesthetic procedures: a report of four cases. Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology, 34(9), e492-e494.
Babamiri, K., & Nassab, R. (2018). Cosmetic and skincare treatment complications in skin of color patients. The American Journal of Cosmetic Surgery, 35(2), 77-83.
Varani, J., Warner, R. L., Gharaee-Kermani, M., Phan, S. H., Kang, S., Chung, J. H., ... & Fisher, G. J. (2000). Vitamin A antagonizes decreased cell growth and elevated collagen-degrading matrix metalloproteinases and stimulates collagen accumulation in naturally aged human skin. Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 114(3), 480-486.
